Discovering Yosemite
Yosemite Valley is 7.5 miles long and one mile wide, yet it contains some of the most famous rock formations, waterfalls, and wilderness scenery on the planet. Half Dome rises 4,737 feet above the valley floor. El Capitan’s sheer granite face climbs 3,000 feet — the largest granite monolith in North America and the proving ground for the world’s greatest rock climbers. Yosemite Falls drops 2,425 feet in a series of three tiers, the tallest waterfall in North America.
Visit in May or June for the waterfalls at full thundering flow from Sierra snowmelt. Visit in September for ideal hiking with September crowds dramatically thinner than July. Avoid July and August weekends entirely if you can — the valley is spectacular and worth enduring any crowd, but the planning required for a comfortable summer visit is substantial.
Things to Do
The Mist Trail is the finest day hike in the park and arguably the best hike in California. The trail climbs from Happy Isles along the Merced River past Vernal Fall (5.4 miles RT) and Nevada Fall (7 miles RT), gaining 2,000 feet on stone steps carved directly into the granite cliff. The mist from Vernal Fall soaks you on warm days — bring a rain layer. Start before 8am in summer and you will have the lower section nearly to yourself before the day-trippers arrive.
Glacier Point delivers the signature valley panorama — Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, and the entire valley floor from 3,200 feet above. Drive there (open roughly May through November, 1 hour from the valley) or hike the strenuous Four Mile Trail (9.6 miles round trip from the valley). No additional fee beyond park entry. Arrive for sunrise or sunset for extraordinary light on the granite walls.
The Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias contains the Grizzly Giant, roughly 1,800 years old and 96 feet in circumference. A free shuttle runs from the parking area. The lower grove loop is 2 miles and accessible; the full grove is 7 miles. The sequoias are not the tallest trees (that distinction goes to coastal redwoods) but they are the most massive living things by volume on Earth.
Where to Stay
The Ahwahnee Hotel ($500–800/night) is the premier national park lodge in America — a 1927 stone-and-timber landmark beneath Royal Arches. Book 12 months ahead for summer. Yosemite Valley Lodge ($260–350/night) is the best mid-range option with modern rooms and free shuttle at the door. Curry Village canvas tent cabins ($100–160/night) provide the most affordable in-valley option.
Outside the park, Rush Creek Lodge and Evergreen Lodge near the Big Oak Flat entrance offer resort amenities at lower prices. Gateway towns of Mariposa ($100–180/night) and Groveland ($120–200/night) provide additional budget options 30–45 minutes from the valley entrance.
Where to Eat
The Ahwahnee Dining Room ($30–55 entrees) for a special-occasion dinner in the grandest room in any national park. Yosemite Valley Lodge food court ($10–18) for everyday meals. Curry Village pizza deck ($14–20) and taqueria ($8–14) for casual dinners. Village Store for groceries and sandwich supplies for trail lunches ($12–18/person packed lunch). Best strategy: stock up at the Mariposa Food Market or Oakhurst Raley’s before entering the park.
Scott’s Tips
- Logistics: Book your timed-entry reservation on recreation.gov the moment it opens — they go within minutes for peak summer dates. The YARTS bus from Merced ($18 round trip, includes park entry) is a genuine alternative that avoids the parking nightmare entirely. Fill gas before entering; the park has no fuel stations.
- Best time to visit: May through June for waterfalls at peak flow. September for ideal hiking with dramatically thinner crowds after Labor Day. October for fall color and quiet. Avoid July and August weekends if crowds concern you — the park is worth any crowd, but proper planning is required.
- Getting around: Park your car once and use the free valley shuttle year-round — it stops at every trailhead, lodge, and visitor center every 10–20 minutes. Valley parking fills by 9am in summer. Bike rentals ($34/day) at Yosemite Valley Lodge for the 12-mile valley bike path. For Glacier Point and Tuolumne Meadows, a car or the seasonal paid shuttle is required.
- Money: $35/vehicle entry valid for 7 days. America the Beautiful Pass ($80) covers all national parks for a year — worth it for two or more park visits. Pack a cooler from Mariposa or Oakhurst to avoid in-park grocery prices. The Ahwahnee bar is open to non-hotel guests and worth stopping for a drink in the great hall.
- Safety: Start strenuous hikes before 8am. Carry at least 2 liters of water per person. Bears in the valley are bold — never leave food in vehicles, use bear boxes at campgrounds, and bring bear canisters for backcountry camping. The Half Dome cables become extremely dangerous in wet conditions; turn back if weather threatens.
- Packing: Rain layer for the Mist Trail (mandatory — you will get soaked). Layers for dramatic temperature swings between the valley floor and rim trails. Microspikes if visiting in early spring with icy trails. Strong sunscreen for high-elevation exposure. Bear canister for any overnight backcountry permits.
- Local culture: Yosemite Valley is a shared national treasure — stay on marked trails, leave no trace, yield to uphill hikers on the Mist Trail, and resist the urge to block narrow granite stairways for extended photo sessions. The rangers are excellent for current conditions; ask them what is open, what is crowded, and what is worth the detour.