The ferry from Long Beach takes 75 minutes and deposits you in a world that has successfully ignored the 20th century. No personal cars. No traffic. No strip malls. The main street of Avalon wraps around a harbor of sailboats and kayaks, and the hills above it are 88% protected wilderness where a herd of bison — introduced in 1924 for a film shoot and never removed — still roams as if this were the Great Plains. Twenty-two miles from LA, and it genuinely does not feel like it.
I came for a weekend and arrived on a Saturday morning ferry that was fully loaded with day-trippers. By 5pm, most of them were gone — back on the last boats to the mainland — and Avalon transformed. The restaurants filled with people staying for the night rather than killing time before their return boat. The harbor got quieter. The hillside above the Casino Ballroom went dark except for the stars. This is the version of Catalina worth staying for.
The Casino is not a casino — it was built in 1929 as a ballroom and movie theater and has not had a gambling table since the beginning. The art deco interior has been meticulously maintained, and the rooftop deck looks over the harbor and across the channel toward the mainland. On clear days you can see downtown LA. On clearer days than that, you can see the snow on the San Gabriel Mountains.
Lover’s Cove is the snorkeling spot that requires no equipment beyond a mask: garibaldi fish (California’s state marine fish, bright orange) in clear water at fifteen feet, kelp, and the occasional leopard shark in the sandy areas. It is directly accessible from the ferry dock. The water in summer is 68–72°F and the visibility is better than anything available on the mainland.
The Arrival
75 minutes from Long Beach, no cars, bison on the hills, and clear water for snorkeling from the ferry dock — Catalina earns its island mythology.
Why Catalina Island deserves your attention
Catalina is the most accessible island escape from Los Angeles — close enough for a day trip but rewarding enough to justify staying overnight. The no-car policy preserves the atmosphere that makes it worth visiting: Avalon feels like a Mediterranean harbor town rather than a California suburb, and the interior wilderness is genuinely wild.
The snorkeling, the bison, the 1929 Art Deco Casino Ballroom, and the quietude of the island after the last ferry leaves make this the best quick escape from the LA metro for those who want something that does not resemble the mainland at all.
What To Explore
Garibaldi fish at Lover's Cove, bison in the island interior, and a 1929 ballroom with views of the mainland 22 miles away.
What should you do on Catalina Island?
Snorkeling at Lover’s Cove — The marine preserve directly accessible from the Avalon ferry terminal, with garibaldi fish, kelp, and occasional leopard sharks in clear water at 10–25 feet. Equipment rentals available at the cove and nearby shops. Free entry to the cove; gear rental approximately $20.
Casino Ballroom and Deck — The 1929 Art Deco ballroom (no gambling — a grand theater and dance hall) with a rooftop deck that frames the harbor below and the mainland across the channel. Guided tours daily approximately $18; the deck and exterior are free.
Island Interior Bison Tour — The Catalina Island Conservancy runs guided eco-tours of the island interior where the bison herd ranges. The Jeep tours reach areas inaccessible on foot. Approximately $60–90/person. The herd descended from 14 animals brought for a 1924 Zane Grey film adaptation.
Zip Line Eco-Tour — A zip line through the island interior canyon with harbor views and a naturalist guide. Approximately $100–120/person. Popular with families and those wanting an aerial view of the island landscape.
Two Harbors — The island’s second settlement, 14 miles from Avalon by road or accessible by ferry on certain days. Fewer than 200 people live here. The camping, diving, and fishing are excellent. The pace is significantly slower than Avalon.
Kayaking and Paddleboarding — Kayak rentals from Avalon for self-guided exploration of the coves around the harbor. Paddleboard rentals from the same vendors. Guided kayak tours to sea caves and the kelp forest approximately $50–70/person.
- Getting There: Catalina Express from Long Beach (75 min, $79 round-trip) or San Pedro. Book in advance for summer weekends — boats sell out. Helicopter from Long Beach ($130 each way) is faster but expensive.
- Best Time: June–October for warm water snorkeling and clear skies. September is ideal — summer crowds thin, water is warmest (70°F+), and prices ease slightly. Avoid summer holiday weekends for day trips.
- Money: Budget $150–250/day including ferry, accommodation, meals, and one activity. Avalon is resort-priced; eat at the less-touristy spots on the side streets for better value.
- Don't Miss: Staying overnight rather than day-tripping — the island transforms after the last ferry departs and the evening harbor is the best version of Avalon.
- Avoid: Arriving on summer Saturdays without advance dinner reservations — the combination of day-trippers and overnight guests fills every restaurant on busy weekends.
- Local Phrase: None needed, but rent a golf cart ($50/hour) rather than walking everywhere — the hills above Avalon are steep and the views from the upper roads are worth the extra distance.
The Food
Waterfront seafood, harbor-view dining, and the fish tacos that are significantly better when you can see the Pacific from your table.
Where should you eat on Catalina Island?
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The Lobster Trap — The seafood benchmark in Avalon: fresh local fish, Catalina-caught lobster (in season), and the full Pacific seafood menu in a casual setting. $25–55 per person. Arrive early or wait.
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Steve’s Steakhouse — The island’s most consistent dinner restaurant, with harbor views and a menu that runs from seafood to steaks. Reservation essential on weekends. $40–70 per person.
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Original Jack’s Country Kitchen — The local breakfast spot: eggs, pancakes, and the morning fuel station for those catching early ferries or heading out to snorkel. $12–20 per person.
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Avalon Grille — Casual harbor-front dining with excellent fish tacos and the island’s best casual lunch. $15–35 per person. The outdoor seating overlooking the harbor is worth prioritizing.
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Antonio’s Pizzeria — The island’s no-pretense pizza place that locals actually eat at. Good for evenings after activities. $12–25 per person.
Where to Stay
Harbor view rooms or hillside bungalows — Avalon is compact enough that every option is walkable to the ferry and the snorkeling.
Where should you stay on Catalina Island?
Budget ($100–180/night): Several smaller hotels and B&Bs in Avalon offer clean rooms at the lower end of the island’s price range. Hotel Atwater is the most reliable budget option — recently renovated and centrally located near the harbor.
Mid-range ($200–350/night): Hotel Villa Portofino is the standout mid-range choice — Mediterranean character, harbor-facing rooms, and a central position on the main promenade. Hotel Metropole has the same general quality with rooftop views.
Luxury ($400–800+/night): Mt. Ada — the former William Wrigley Jr. mansion — is Catalina’s most extraordinary property: 6 rooms in a 1921 hillside mansion with panoramic harbor views, full board, and the sense of having the island to yourself. The Inn at Mt. Ada is legendary in California travel circles.
Before You Go
One night minimum — arriving the night before lets you snorkel before the day-trippers arrive and stay for the evening harbor atmosphere.
When is the best time to visit Catalina Island?
June through October is peak season: warm water (65–72°F), clear visibility for snorkeling, and the full island services operating. September is the sweet spot — summer crowds thin after Labor Day, water temperature peaks in late September, and the weather is still excellent.
November through March: quieter, fewer services operating, and some businesses close or reduce hours. The hiking is excellent (cooler temperatures) and the whale watching season begins in December. Rates drop significantly.
Catalina Island is a natural addition to any Los Angeles trip and works as a standalone California coastal getaway. See the full California destinations guide or plan your California itinerary at /plan/.